In years gone by, repairs around the house were considered as work for contractors. In modern times, there is no reason why normal people should not to know how to use home improvement power tools. All you need is knowledge of six basic power tools and you will be on your way to home repair independence.

The first tool you should learn about is a power drill. This simple tool allows you to easily drill holes of different sizes into wood. Power drills come with a variety of different sized bits; just put the bit you need into the drill and make your hole. This simple power tool has a myriad of uses: everything from putting up curtains to changing the locks on your door.

Once you’ve gained confidence in using a power drill, you may be ready for a power sander. Sanders are used to make wood smooth prior to building or painting. The only thing you have to remember about power sanders is that they generate a lot of dust; wear protective goggles and do all your sanding outside.

Some climbers like ivy need no support other than that provided by their aerial roots whereas others, as for example the climbing roses, need tying in with string, plastic ribbon, webbing or a similar artificial aid.

Tradition has it that clematis produce their best efforts when the roots are shaded but the flowers are allowed to reach up into the sun. However, I believe a well-drained soil to be more important, otherwise losses in winter are liable to be heavy. A mulch of peat mixed with a handful of bone- meal is all the feed necessary.

Before attempting any planting examine the soil at the foot of an average house wall. Usually it consists of builders’ leavings, sub-soil, pot crocks and other aridities, possibly enriched by a few tea leaves. All this must be excavated and replaced with soil from a fertile part of the garden.

Few things are harder to make an impression on than a well-seasoned oak stump. It took several heart-rending hours with an axe to convince me of this. Eventually I planted a x jouiniana in front of it and now the stump is hidden by a sprawling network of branches which from July to August are covered by white, lilac-tinted flowers.

The weeping fig of Ficus benjamina has small, oval-shaped, glossy green leaves and may grow to a height of 20 ft. in a large pot. Conditions similar to those suggested for the monstera are best. These plants dislike being moved from place to place, so should be left alone when obviously settled and growing well.

The glossy green leaves of Ficus lyrata are shaped like the body of a violin and have faint yellow veins running through them, but the overall impression is purely green. Not particularly easy to care for, it does better if the roots are allowed to grow through the bottom of the pot and into a container filled with moist peat. It takes many years to reach maturity but a height of 20 ft. is quite possible when plants are growing in large pots. However, by the time plants attain this height they will have almost inevitably lost most of their lower leaves. Conditions required are warm, moist and shaded; the temperature should not fall below 16C. (60″F.).

Adiantum is widely distributed in South America, Australia and New Zealand. The suitable temperature for the plat is from10 to 18C. (50 to 65F.). It is moderately easy to grow.

When introducing new plants to a collection, whether they he gifts or purchased, a brief inspection should be made for the presence of pests, as these are very much easier to avoid than to eradicate.

When creating a display, be it in the fireplace or at the4lower club, there can be few plants that blend in so readily with almost any chosen colour scheme. And one cannot imagine any major function at which flowers play an important part where cut maidenhair fern would not be used in quantity. To supply adiantum for this purpose the nurseryman forsakes pot culture and plants his stock into specially prepared beds in the ground in his greenhouses, which gives a greatly increased yield. The owner of the garden room may well benefit from the nurseryman’s example by planting adiantum at the front of prepared beds containing an assortment of house plants.

On most varieties stems will, quite naturally, become leafless and woody in time. When this happens and the plant is no longer attractive the stems should be cut to within a few inches from their base. Keep the potful of stumps as they usually grow again from the base. The stems can then be cut up into sections some 2 to 3 in. in length.

Often enough, with hederas for example, three or four leaves with a longer piece of stem will be used. In these instances it is usually advisable to remove the lower leaf or two and not to bury the remaining leaves in the compost. Plants resulting from this type of cutting are often fuller and of better quality. In the case of cuttings with smaller leaves (hederas, tradescantias and Ficus pinate) it is advisable to insert as many as six cuttings in a pot. Plants so produced are of much better appearance than those from only one or two cuttings in each pot. Hedcras, being easy to propagate, should be inserted directly into the compost in which they are expected to grow – transferring them from peat to compost is not necessary with the easier plants, and causes unnecessary disturbance of the new root system. However, when rooting cuttings of the larger leaved hederas such as H. canariensis they should first be encouraged to root in peat.