For less demanding shrubs the standard John Innes Seed Compost, made up of 2 parts loam, 1 part peat, and 1 sand will do very well. The loam is sterilised by heating it to about 82C. or 180F. to kill pests, weeds and diseases.

Ideally they should be 2 to 3 in. long, thin and short jointed. As with all cuttings remove the leaves from that part of the stem which is to go below soil level. These should be cut with a sharp razor blade and not pulled away as this damages the stem too much. It is important not to leave too many leaves on a cutting as these will increase the rate at which water is lost through transpiration which the cutting may be unable to makeup, causing it to wither and die. At the same time the base can be trimmed back to immediately below the leaf joint making a nodal cutting. The Majority of cuttings root most readily from this point, but there are exceptions which should be trimmed between the leaf joints to make internodal cuttings. As would be expected, the time of availability for softwood cuttings is rate spring or early summer, i.e. May and early June.

Depth of sowing depends very much on the type of seed. A good general rule is to cover them with soil to twice their own depth, but always wait until the soil is in a fine friable condition.

Leave the seedlings undisturbed till they are several inches high and then transplant them at the normal planting season for the species, giving them ample room for further development. They can then be grown on for at least another year by which time they should be big enough to go out into their permanent quarters.

A sheltered bed facing west or north, well provided with sand, will do fine for hardwood cuttings. There may be room to make a light sun frame which extends the range of semi-hardwood cuttings. Seed can be sown in pots, stood in the airing cupboard until germinated, then grown indoors until they are large enough to go outside. just a cheap, modest way of filling a garden with a large array of shrubs.

Chamaecyparis lawsonilina, Lawson’s Cypress, makes a tall tree and is useful as a windbreak or screen to hide some ugly part of the view beyond the garden. I would use a selected forth like Green Hedger for often seedlings show a wide variation in ultimate height. Selected forms include allumii which is often used in tubs or on terraced walks for the growth is upright and the colour glaucous blue, and ellwoodii which is very slow growing, with feathery graceful leaves and an ultimate height of between 8 and 10 ft.

Erecta makes a pyramid of light green while the grey feathery-leaved fletcheri has a tendency to spread under heavy weights of snow, but it is still a worthy contender for a place in the garden. Wisselii is the most tightly erect of all and in youth its branching pattern shows a whirled effect. I nip the top out of the cuttings to encourage this. C. obtusa nana is a jewel with tight fans of mossy green leaves and a neat and compact habit. C. obtusa crippsii is a small slow- growing loosely conical tree and it makes one of the loveliest small garden conifers.

As the rash of tarmacadam and concrete spreads to hide the soft green contours of rural Britain, so will an increasingly office-bound community turn to their gardens for a place in which to relax. Gardening is a healthy, creative hobby with many rewards and a well-planned and tended garden can provide its owner with a peaceful setting in which he can spend many happy hours.

I was very much a novice, depending on annuals for a quick return for my labours. A beautiful clipped yew planted when the house was built and a golden chamaecyparis were central features of the house frontage. Anything which took up space capable of supporting a marigold or godetia was anathema to me so one day when father was away I uprooted both these patriarchs on to the bonfire. No one in that quiet Dales village spoke to me for a week. They were all too busy sympathising with my parents for having produced such a wayward son. The many hundred trees I have planted since have not erased the feeling of guilt this piece of vandalism burdened me with.

They will be indoors a full month longer than they should be and during this time they will be struggling to make the right kind of growth. Leaves and stalks will be pale and weak and the plants will not be the strong, vigorous type needed to start the season outdoors. Tuberous begonias started to root about the first of March will be developing during more favorable light conditions: the days are brighter and longer in April when they will be making leaf growth.

Sometimes tuberous begonias are planted too early because they have started to sprout and this suggests to the grower that the tuber wants to start growing again, that they will suffer if not permitted to grow. The young, pink sprouts may appear early, due to the storage conditions being too warm, thus encouraging growth.

By keeping the tubers in a cooler place this can be prevented. Preliminary rooting before top growth is made is essential with tuberous begonias. This rooting period takes about 30 days. By then there are enough roots, the top has grown a few inches and potting should be done.