Friday, February 29th, 2008
by Marie Thompson
Paphiopedilums do not divide as readily as the cymbidiums and cattleyas and although they do not outgrow their pots so fast annual repotting seems to suit them. Certainly the intervals between repotting should not be longer than two years, by which time the compost will have become exhausted.
Having severed the rhizome the divisions will pull apart, revealing a number of dead roots at the centre of the plant. The rhizome which has been cut through is hard and woody, and should come to no harm as a result. However, as a precaution against the possibility of causing a rot to set up in the cut ends, they can be dusted with sulphur or any powdered fungicide to ensure that the areas remain dry. Once the divisions have been separated, any remaining compost will fall away, leaving the bare root divisions ready to be trimmed. It will be found that the roots belonging to the oldest pseudobulbs will be dead. These roots will have died naturally of old age, and can therefore be removed from the plant. Only those roots supporting the younger pseudobulbs will be alive, and these should be trimmed back to within 6 in (r5 cm). The back division of the plant will probably be found to contain no live roots at all, and in this case some of the dead roots should be left on the plant to about 6 in to provide an anchorage when potting the plant.
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Thursday, February 28th, 2008
by Mark Lemon
Since being placed in the basket this plant has been carefully watered, being kept just slightly moist until the roots were seen. It was well sprayed over its leaves and pseudobulbs which helped to reduce the loss of moisture through the leaves, and in particular the surface of the compost was sprayed so as not to dislodge the bark.
By the time the Encyclia pentotis has been removed from its existing square wooden basket, it will have little of its original root system left, and with the removal of the old compost there will be nothing to hold the plant in the new basket. Using a length of plastic-coated wire and a pair of pliers position the plant in its new elongated basket with the oldest, leafless pseudobulbs to one end, so that the front of the plant is close to the other end, with sufficient room available for at least two years’ growth.
To provide a moisture pad for the orchids, a small amount of osmunda fibre will be needed to place between the base of the plants and the bark. This will aid development of new roots at the same time supplying them with some nutrient. Osmunda fibre was for many years the standard ingredient in orchid compost. Today, although expensive, it can be purchased from some orchid nurseries.
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Wednesday, February 27th, 2008
by Marshall Clewis
Watering: This is probably the most important activity for a garden in January. Throughout most of this area, winter droughts are common. Even though temperatures may dip very low, the available moisture necessary for plant growth may be lacking. Often the greatest damage to plants is caused by a dry freeze. When soil is dry, open and loose, the freezing air will penetrate, damage and often kill the root system of plants. The top surface of the soil, if kept moist, will freeze over and insulate the soil below, thus preventing the penetration of freezing temperatures. Mulch provides protection and helps hold moisture.
Even though freezing temperatures may not develop, many feeder roots can be damaged by becoming dehydrated, and a stunted plant will result. Thoroughly soak the bulbs that were planted last October as they are beginning to grow now. A light feeding of liquid plant food and thorough watering will improve the quality of bloom and length of stem.
Watering means thorough deep soaking and not just superficial sprinkling with a spray from the hose. The old fashion sprinkler hose or soil soakers are good for this purpose. Do not fail to keep the lawn areas watered during the winter months.
Tags: garden, gardening, landscape, landscape design
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Tuesday, February 26th, 2008
by Lucille Green
Sometimes a little more garden landscaping is exactly what your home needs. Most likely, which is excellent. Landscaping is more fun than one can imagine, and there’s nothing more exciting than planting your own flowerbed.
When you try layering your landscaping beds you add a new dimension to the aesthetic appeal of your garden design. Your garden makes the first impression on any visitor to your home, so giving a tour that showcases your awesome garden is a wonderful idea. Garden landscaping can make you the talk of your neighborhood for good reasons.
Layering your garden landscaping project is easy to do. Finding out what kind of plants you are planting is very important. The layout of your landscaping will be affected by many things including your choice of flowers and other plants.
Although this may be obvious to you, you should still make a rough sketch of the layout for your garden landscaping prior to beginning. This way, your work is kept to a very minimum level. Your garden landscaping project will be accomplished sooner with fewer snags along the way.
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Monday, February 25th, 2008
by Adam Peters
If you are in search of good looking outdoor furniture to be used for your deck and you prefer quality furniture that displays a sense of style and luxury, then deck furniture made of deck would be the best option. None of the other wood furniture can be as good as the teak and cannot match its excellence. On the other hand teak is also very expensive than other furniture molded out from other materials, and the benefits you receive from them are always worth their price.
The looks of teak deck furniture are for sure very understandable. There is after all, something that has to be said regarding the durability of the wood that is been used in the boats craftsmanship. If teak can tolerate or bear the harsh things of the powerful sea, then furniture of the teak deck can surely bear all the wear and tear that you backyard would put through.
Tags: backyard, deck, furniture, gardening, home, home improvements, interior styles, teak deck furniture, wood
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